"David, I believe that you will have to reiterate that you are referring to the battery heater, and not the engine heater. I don’t believe that there have been any prior posts about anyone using a Reiff battery heater. Gary "
Thanks Frank and Gary. I am referring to the BATTERY heater that Reiff offers. Thinking that the cold really saps and taxes the battery during cold weather operations - like some of us are exposed to occasionally here in the Center of the nation, it would make sense to warm them up a bit. I was specifically looking for field experience with them. So… how about it out there? Anyone yet? David Schwietert
When I used to have a tanis system, on a trinidad I coverd the cowling with a blanket. The heat from the system keeps everything real warm under there never an problem. I also stuffed the blankets in the air inlets. It was very cold there were I was and it worked well from Don
When I used to be based in Iowa City the owner of the other SR20 had a Tanis engine heater and battery heater installed. He seemed to be happy with it.
I had the engine heater only installed and never had a problem starting the plane as long as the heater had been plugged in for a few hours. If your plane is going to be sitting outside the battery heater would make most sense.
If your plane is going to be sitting outside the battery heater would make most sense.
Stuart,
You may well be right in terms of EASE OF STARTING, but I’d respectfully disagree regarding the advisability of doing so.
The engine takes a pretty decent beating when it it started when it’s cold-soaked. It’s a matter of widely varied opinion as to just-how-cold-is-how-bad… but the experts I’ve read agree that it’s healthier to start a warmer engine.
F.E. Potts, author of the excellent on-line book Guide to Bush Flying - Concepts and Techniques for the Pro, quotes Mike Bush, the Cessna Pilots Association’s engine specialist, claiming that “one cold start at the lower temperature extremes can cause as much wear as 500 hours of normal cruise operation… This takes into consideration the metal-to-metal contact between the piston and cylinder walls caused by the uneven expansion of the aluminum pistons and steel cylinders as the engine goes rapidly from very cold to very hot”. Of course, he’s talking about temperature extremes, but I think that the point is valid at any temperature below freezing, albeit to a lesser extent. [How much less? Don’t know. Just figure it pays to be conservative here.]
As an aside… what is it with the name “Mike Bush” and airplanes? The “Mike Bush” quoted above may or may not be the http://www.avweb.com/articles/temp_authors.html#mbusch>Mike of AVweb (different spelling); there’s a Mike Busch at Cirrus (head of the Air Safety department), and Michael Bush, one of our COPA members.
By the way, I heartily recommend Potts’ book - sadly, because of repeated copyright violations, he has pared down the free online offering, although the book can still be purchased in print form. However, chapter titled Preheating Equipment and Methods is, thankfully, still available. This is the source of the quote above.
In the Cirrus, I say preheat the engine with the cylinder bands and sump heater; the engine will radiate enough warmth to keep the battery happy. That’s the best of both worlds. Anyway, that’s my opinion on preheating and cold-weather starts, for whatever it’s worth.
What I meant to say was engine AND battery heat might make sense outside. I thought the engine heat part was obvious and didn’t need to be repeated, its clearly dangerous to assume anything around here.
But, have you priced batteries lately? A warm battery is a happy battery.
Seriously, the battery life is one of the few really weak spots on my plane. Its a royal pain in the *** to check the fluid level in the battery. Even when fully charged I am always afraid that I will kill it before the engine fires to life.
What I meant to say was engine AND battery heat might make sense outside. I thought the engine heat part was obvious and didn’t need to be repeated, its clearly dangerous to assume anything around here.
But, have you priced batteries lately? A warm battery is a happy battery.
Seriously, the battery life is one of the few really weak spots on my plane. Its a royal pain in the *** to check the fluid level in the battery.
Stuart,
My apologies. I re-read your post, and it’s pretty clear what you meant - I just missed it the first time.
I agree that it’s a pain to check the fluid level in the battery, so I do it whenever I have the cowl off (usually for an oil change). It’s actually surprising how much electrolyte disappears - people who DON’T service their batteries regularly will surely find out the hard way that they should.
In reply to:
Even when fully charged I am always afraid that I will kill it before the engine fires to life.
That one surprises me. With the Reiff oil preheating, I have NO trouble - zero, zilch, starting the engine. Two blades, three maximum, and it starts right up. Not sure if yours is a '20 or a '22, and I acknowledge that some engines seem much balkier than others about starting. But no way should it ever threaten the wellbeing of the battery.
Seriously, the battery life is one of the few really weak spots on my plane. Its a royal pain in the *** to check the fluid level in the battery.
I agree. That’s why I swapped out the stock battery (Gill G-243) for the sealed version (G-243S). The two versions have identical dimensions. The sealed version weighs 0.8 lbs more, but has more capacity: 13 amp hours vs. 10 amp hours at the one hour rate. Cold cranking amps increased from 150 to 190.
If I recall correctly, it cost me about $400 to make the swap, but it was worth it for peace of mind.
Mine is a 20. It seems to be getting harder to start with age, now about 420 hours. Although it rarely fails on the second attempt the problem may be my reluctance to prime it enough. My battery paranoia has gone far enough that I fear the prime button itself will be enough to kill the battery. Wish I had heard about the sealed battery a year ago when mine was replaced.
Its probably a psychological problem, me and batteries. I have the same trouble on boats, but that’s another story.
That’s why I swapped out the stock battery (Gill G-243) for the sealed version (G-243S).
Mike,
Thanks – I’ve put this post in the memory banks for when I need it, probably when I have to replace the battery. Did this change require any paperwork (STC, 337, etc) or is it a “minor change”? Does the sealed version do away with the battery vent tube, and if so, does that not shave off a few ounces?
The shop that did the battery swap filed a 337 for it. After a few weeks, the FSDO signed off on it and sent back a signed copy. As far as I know, there was no hassle between the shop and the FSDO, and according to the shop, it was OK for me to fly with the new battery pending official signoff.
Since there was less than one pound difference between the batteries, it wasn’t necessary to change the weight and balance.
The sealed battery has a vent tube connection, just like the old battery, so we hooked it up.