Cold starts

This winter has been unusually cold. All of the new Cirri in Duluth are kept in a heated hanger. After delivery, there has been a rash of folks reporting problems with cold starting the engine.The last thing one wants in a new plane is the unreliability of its engine to start.What are you folks finding out there? Is this engine unusually difficult to start in cold weather? Has anyone found a method that works? We are talking about temperatures between 20 and 40 degrees not the below zero weather of extremes. Has anyone found wear problems with the starter, battery or boost pump as a result of the starting woes?

It would be a shame to have a wonderful new Cirrus that will not start on the ramp every time it gets a little chilly out there!

Brian

Well before you go to start have one of those budda fellas bless it like they did for mel gibson on air america.Seemed to work for him. jeff

The unwillingness of the engine to fire up in cold winter temperatures is not only frustrating, but outright humiliating and embarrassing when Pipers, Cessna’s and TB’s start their old horses without fail after priming for a couple of seconds only, while I am desparately looking around for the cart to resurrect my battery after minutes of fruitless noises…

There have been a couple of discussions on this board about cold starts without a definite single can’t fail recipe as of yet. What seems to work best is prime, prime and prime for a VERY long time (like 40-80 seconds) before starting. If it doesn’t fire up, prime again VERY long. Don’t take any notice of or worry about the ever expanding fuel stain below the engine (others will do that for you, I’ve had buckets handed to me…) as Cirrus says that you can’t overprime the engine.

After priming bring the throttle back to about 1/6th of an inch open and keep close to the prime switch just in case ot fires but starves.

Anyone else better idea’s???

When it starts it runs like nothing else though…

Cheers

HK (N144CD at EHLE)

This winter has been unusually cold. All of the new Cirri in Duluth are kept in a heated hanger. After delivery, there has been a rash of folks reporting problems with cold starting the engine.The last thing one wants in a new plane is the unreliability of its engine to start.What are you folks finding out there? Is this engine unusually difficult to start in cold weather? Has anyone found a method that works? We are talking about temperatures between 20 and 40 degrees not the below zero weather of extremes. Has anyone found wear problems with the starter, battery or boost pump as a result of the starting woes?

It would be a shame to have a wonderful new Cirrus that will not start on the ramp every time it gets a little chilly out there!

Brian

Do these cold start problems occur on planes that use preheat systems, such as the Rieff, or only on non-preheated planes?

This winter has been unusually cold. All of the new Cirri in Duluth are kept in a heated hanger. After delivery, there has been a rash of folks reporting problems with cold starting the engine.The last thing one wants in a new plane is the unreliability of its engine to start.What are you folks finding out there? Is this engine unusually difficult to start in cold weather? Has anyone found a method that works? We are talking about temperatures between 20 and 40 degrees not the below zero weather of extremes. Has anyone found wear problems with the starter, battery or boost pump as a result of the starting woes?

It would be a shame to have a wonderful new Cirrus that will not start on the ramp every time it gets a little chilly out there!

Brian

I’ve had no trouble this winter starting at 20F and above except once when the battery needed service.

The battery needed water probably due to excessive cranking earlier in the year while learning how to start it - it doesn’t start a lot better in the spring and summer if the proper procedures are not followed.

After the 30 seconds plus of prime, then putting the switch to boost or just continuing to prime, the main thing is to barely open the throttle.

Better yet, close it and barely open it after cranking a short time.

Cranking with the throttle closed may suck more fuel into the engine.

The only heat I’ve used is a small hair dryer put in by the oil cooler - not aimed up at the fiberglass cowling - when the temperature was below 20F.

It also works to preheat the interior.

Heat is critical below a certain temperature not just for starting but for engine longevity because the iron cylinders expand and contract with temperature change at a different rate than the aluminum pistons causing destructive metal to metal contact.

Since the cylinders of the Continental IO360 are smaller than those of the large six cylinder engines or the four cylinder Lycoming 360’s, there may be a little more leeway in the SR20.

The 100LL fuel doesn’t vaporize adequately for reliable starting at low temperatures but it shouldnÂ’t be a problem if the engine has been preheated to 20 to 30 degrees F.

I know that using a synthetic oil greatly improves cranking compared to a non-synthetic oil so I would assume that a semi-synthetic oil would help some too.

The strangest phenomenon in cold weather starting is that an unsuccessful starting attempt can cause the spark plugs to frost over (water is a byproduct of combustion) making a preheat to above freezing necessary.

I haven’t tried blowing a hair dryer up the exhaust to deal with frosted plugs since it hasn’t happened to me recently but it might work.

I haven’t yet had trouble starting away from home but I am considering carrying a spare recombinant gas battery (safe to transport) which could be kept in a warm place until needed to help in starting.

A reasonably priced substitute would be two maintenance free 12 volt motorcycle batteries connected in series (they could be connected in parallel for charging with a cheap trickle charger or a small generator).

I liked the suggestion I saw here of a small generator and saw a 1000 watt unit which may not have weighed a lot more than an aircraft battery.

With a small generator providing heat and a sleeping bag to throw over the cowl you should eventually be able to get going even away from home at a remote unattended airport with temps 10 or 20 below. Add a 24 volt charger to almost guarantee it.

The instructions for recharging the battery require that it be removed from the aircraft though I canÂ’t imagine why since it has a manifold vented to outside the aircraft.

It would be very handy if a charging connection could be accessed just inside the oil access door or inside the cabin.

I saw a posting saying that the lower cowl must be removed to get at the cotter pins in the battery hold down bolts.

It isnÂ’t comfortable or easy but they can be removed with only the upper cowl removed even with large hands and in the cold.

This winter has been unusually cold. All of the new Cirri in Duluth are kept in a heated hanger. After delivery, there has been a rash of folks reporting problems with cold starting the engine.The last thing one wants in a new plane is the unreliability of its engine to start.What are you folks finding out there? Is this engine unusually difficult to start in cold weather? Has anyone found a method that works? We are talking about temperatures between 20 and 40 degrees not the below zero weather of extremes. Has anyone found wear problems with the starter, battery or boost pump as a result of the starting woes?

It would be a shame to have a wonderful new Cirrus that will not start on the ramp every time it gets a little chilly out there!

Brian

Well before you go to start have one of those budda fellas bless it like they did for mel gibson on air america.Seemed to work for him. ff

These answers are reinfording my concerns about what should be a simple process. I know of one Cirrus in Maryland that has yet to be able to start the engine without a jump startwhenever the temperature has been below 40 F. This is rediculous! Clearly there has got to be a better way!

Brian

These answers are reinfording my concerns about what should be a simple process. I know of one Cirrus in Maryland that has yet to be able to start the engine without a jump startwhenever the temperature has been below 40 F. This is rediculous! Clearly there has got to be a better way!

Brian

There is a way and it works every time. Just as Han said, you must prime this engine a great deal - eg. at least 30 seconds, immediately switch to boost, close the throttle and crank.

After I watched 3 different A&P’s kill my battery, I decided to ignore their advice and listen to Cirrus’, particularly Mike Busch. Prime, prime and prime some more. You won’t flood the engine and it will start. I haven’t had a problem since Thanksgiving.

One last tip to try that doesn’t require as long a prime - continue to prime while you crank and switch to boost for a few seconds after it starts, until it runs smooth.

These answers are reinfording my concerns about what should be a simple process. I know of one Cirrus in Maryland that has yet to be able to start the engine without a jump startwhenever the temperature has been below 40 F. This is rediculous! Clearly there has got to be a better way!

Brian

There is a way and it works every time. Just as Han said, you must prime this engine a great deal - eg. at least 30 seconds, immediately switch to boost, close the throttle and crank.

After I watched 3 different A&P’s kill my battery, I decided to ignore their alisten to Cirrus’, particularly Mike Busch. Prime, prime and prime some more. You won’t flood the engine and it will start. I haven’t had a problem since Thanksgiving.

One last tip to try that doesn’t require as long a prime - continue to prime while you crank and switch to boost for a few seconds after it starts, until it runs smooth.

Joe:

So far you seem to have had the best experience with the cold starts so let me quiz you a bit more.

What is the coldest temperature you started with no problem?

What is the threshold temperature for which you automatically go to the 30 second prime. In other words, how cold does it need to be to go to that procedure?

You mentioned prime and then throttle back to idle and then crank. How open do you have the throttle during prime? It is already clear that to start in cold the throttle should be either at idle or open no more than 1/8 inch.

You may have the answer based on your experience since Thansgiving. Where do you base the plane? How does your starting procedure differ from what Mike Busch told you?

Thanks for sharing this invaluable information.

Brian

I have had much difficulties with cold starts too.(Temperatures between 40 and 28 degree F) Following the POH much fuel flows out to the ground whilst priming. I got it with extern power only. I asked TCM and got the following recommendation which does not agree with the POH:

"1.Throttle full open

2.Mixture idle cut off

3.press prime for 10 - 12 seconds, then push mixture lever full rich and continue to prime for further 4-6 seconds

4.Throttle set to start up position

5.Magnetos switches on

6.Turn key whilst engine is rotating intermittantly, press prime.This may be necessary

to maintain engine running for up to 15 seconds.

The above procedure is for cold starting down to 15 degrees C."

I could not try it until now because the first yearly inspection together with the installing of the WX need more time as thought and I asked after the plane was brought to the inspection.

My main concern is the excess fuel to the ramp.

Kindly, let me know your experience with method of TCM.

Dieter

These answers are reinfording my concerns about what should be a simple process. I know of one Cirrus in Maryland that has yet to be able to start the engine without a jump startwhenever the temperature has been below 40 F. This is rediculous! Clearly there has got to be a better way!

Brian

There is a way and it works every time. Just as Han said, you must prime this engine a great deal - eg. at least 30 seconds, immediately switch to boost, close the throttle and crank.

After I watched 3 different A&P’s kill my battery, I decided to ignore their alisten to Cirrus’, particularly Mike Busch. Prime, prime and prime some more. You won’t flood the engine and it will start. I haven’t had a problem since Thanksgiving.

One last tip to try that doesn’t require as long a prime - continue to prime while you crank and switch to boost for a few seconds after it starts, until it runs smooth.

Joe:

So far you seem to have had the best experience with the cold starts so let me quiz you a bit more.

What is the coldest temperature you started with no problem?

What is the threshold temperature for which you automatically go to the 30 second prime. In other words, how cold does it need to be to go to that procedure?

You mentioned prime and then throttle back to idle and then crank. How open do you have the throttle during prime? It is already clear that to start in cold the throttle should be either at idle or open no more than 1/8 inch.

You may have the answer based on your experience since Thansgiving. Where do you base the plane? How does your starting procedure differ from what Mike Busch told you?

Thanks for sharing this invaluable information.

Brian

Dear Fellow Cirrophiles,

The term “cold start” is an oxymoran in the SR20. It won,t. I am a proud, but frustrated, owner in Md. We have tried every incarnation of the starting procedure but have not been able to start it below 28 F without a preheat. This is a problem at our field as we(our group of three guys)have no power to plug a heater into or a hanger on the field as of yet. This will be rectified soon with the addition of 40 new hangers so we hope that next winter we have eliminated this problem. Han has the credit for the most effective starting procedure for us which is:

1. Prime with full throttle for 30 sec. 2. Boost pump on. 3. Open throttle 1/4 inch(almost closed). 4. Crank ,but if it doesn't fire, then re prime for 10-20 sec and try again. This usually works. Pre-heat seems to eliminate this problem entirely. Thanks and Good luck, Dan

I have had no problem in starting my SR20 in temperatures down to below 32F. The method I use is

  1. Mixture rich

  2. Full throttle

  3. Prime for 20 secs

  4. Close throttle almost to the stop

  5. Boost pump on

  6. Start with key

Note item 4. The SR20 seems to start best with almost no throttle.

Mike Glazer

N184CD

These answers are reinfording my concerns about what should be a simple process. I know of one Cirrus in Maryland that has yet to be able to start the engine without a jump startwhenever the temperature has been below 40 F. This is rediculous! Clearly there has got to be a better way!

Brian

There is a way and it works every time. Just as Han said, you must prime this engine a great deal - eg. at least 30 seconds, immediately switch to boost, close the throttle and crank.

After I watched 3 different A&P’s kill my battery, I decided to ignore their alisten to Cirrus’, particularly Mike Busch. Prime, prime and prime some more. You won’t flood the engine and it will start. I haven’t had a problem since Thanksgiving.

One last tip to try that doesn’t require as long a prime - continue to prime while you crank and switch to boost for a few seconds after it starts, until it runs smooth.

Joe:

So far you seem to have had the best experience with the cold starts so let me quiz you a bit more.

What is the coldest temperature you started with no problem?

What is the threshold temperature for which you automatically go to the 30 second prime. In other words, how cold does it need to be to go to that procedure?

You mentioned prime and then throttle back to idle and then crank. How open do you have the throttle during prime? It is already clear that to start in cold the throttle should be either at idle or open no more than 1/8 inch.

You may have the answer based on your experience since Thansgiving. Where do you base the plane? How does your starting procedure differ from what Mike Busch told you?

Thanks for sharing this invaluable information.

Brian

I would estimate the coldest “no problem” starts (ie following the POH 10 second prime procedure) to be in the mid-high 40’s F. Anything below this requires inordinate (eg 30 sec) priming. I prime with the throttle and mixture full forward. Haven’t tried it any other way.

I’m based at OWD, 12 miles sw of Boston and Mike Busch’ procedure is the only one that’s worked consistently w/o pre-heat. (I pre-heat below 30F).

These answers are reinfording my concerns about what should be a simple process. I know of one Cirrus in Maryland that has yet to be able to start the engine without a jump startwhenever the temperature has been below 40 F. This is rediculous! Clearly there has got to be a better way!

Dan:

I have heard you guys are having trouble at Ft. Meade. We are over at GAI and ahving the same problem. Would love to talk to you more about it.Sounds like your throttle is open too wide as all posts indicate 1/8 inch is the max and some do not crack the throttle at all. Try the previous post as recommended directly from TCM and see if that works. Keep me posted.

Brian

Cirrus’, particularly Mike Busch. Prime, prime

and prime some more. You won’t flood the engine

and it will start. I haven’t had a problem

since Thanksgiving.

One last tip to try that doesn’t require as long a prime - continue to prime while you crank and switch to boost for a few seconds after it starts, until it runs smooth.

Joe:

So far you seem to have had the best experience with the cold starts so let me quiz you a bit more.

What is the coldest temperature you started with no problem?

What is the threshold temperature for which you automatically go to the 30 second prime. In other words, how cold does it need to be to go to that procedure?

You mentioned prime and then throttle back to idle and then crank. How open do you have the throttle during prime? It is already clear that to start in cold the throttle should be either at idle or open no more than 1/8 inch.

You may have the answer based on your experience since Thansgiving. Where do you base the plane? How does your starting procedure differ from what Mike Busch told you?

Thanks for sharing this invaluable information.

Brian

Dear Fellow Cirrophiles,

The term “cold start” is an oxymoran in the SR20. It won,t. I am a proud, but frustrated, owner in Md. We have tried every incarnation of the starting procedure but have not been able to start it below 28 F without a preheat. This is a problem at our field as we(our group of three guys)have no power to plug a heater into or a hanger on the field as of yet. This will be rectified soon with the addition of 40 new hangers so we hope that next winter we have eliminated this problem. Han has the credit for the most effective starting procedure for us which is:

  1. Prime with full throttle for 30 sec. 2. Boost pump on. 3. Open throttle 1/4 inch(almost closed). 4. Crank ,but if it doesn’t fire, then re prime for 10-20 sec and try again. This usually works. Pre-heat seems to eliminate this problem entirely. Thanks and Good luck, Dan

These answers are reinfording my concerns about what should be a simple process. I know of one Cirrus in Maryland that has yet to be able to start the engine without a jump startwhenever the temperature has been below 40 F. This is rediculous! Clearly there has got to be a better way!

Brian

There is a way and it works every time. Just as Han said, you must prime this engine a great deal - eg. at least 30 seconds, immediately switch to boost, close the throttle and crank.

After I watched 3 different A&P’s kill my battery, I decided to ignore their alisten to Cirrus’, particularly Mike Busch. Prime, prime and prime some more. You won’t flood the engine and it will start. I haven’t had a problem since Thanksgiving.

One last tip to try that doesn’t require as long a prime - continue to prime while you crank and switch to boost for a few seconds after it starts, until it runs smooth.

Joe:

So far you seem to have had the best experience with the cold starts so let me quiz you a bit more.

What is the coldest temperature you started with no problem?

What is the threshold temperature for which you automatically go to the 30 second prime. In other words, how cold does it need to be to go to that procedure?

You mentioned prime and then throttle back to idle and then crank. How open do you have the throttle during prime? It is already clear that to start in cold the throttle should be either at idle or open no more than 1/8 inch.

You may have the answer based on your experience since Thansgiving. Where do you base the plane? How does your starting procedure differ from what Mike Busch told you?

Thanks for sharing this invaluable information.

Brian

Dear Fellow Cirrophiles,

The term “cold start” is an oxymoran in the SR20. It won,t. I am a proud, but frustrated, owner in Md. We have tried every incarnation of the starting procedure but have not been able to start it below 28 F without a preheat. This is a problem at our field as we(our group of three guys)have no power to plug a heater into or a hanger on the field as of yet.

Hmm, I was always told that when the weather goes below 35 or so, you should always preheat the engine, otherwise you risk serious damage. What are TCM’s recommendations on preheating?

Tom

Preheat is the obvious workaround, but how many of us have that available?

For the record: Credit goes to Joe Lennon for the EPCSM (Extended Prime Cold Start Method) as he researched it with TCM and Mike Bush @ Cirrus.

HK

These answers are reinfording my concerns about what should be a simple process. I know of one Cirrus in Maryland that has yet to be able to start the engine without a jump startwhenever the temperature has been below 40 F. This is rediculous! Clearly there has got to be a better way!

Brian

There is a way and it works every time. Just as Han said, you must prime this engine a great deal - eg. at least 30 seconds, immediately switch to boost, close the throttle and crank.

After I watched 3 different A&P’s kill my battery, I decided to ignore their alisten to Cirrus’, particularly Mike Busch. Prime, prime and prime some more. You won’t flood the engine and it will start. I haven’t had a problem since Thanksgiving.

One last tip to try that doesn’t require as long a prime - continue to prime while you crank and switch to boost for a few seconds after it starts, until it runs smooth.

Joe:

So far you seem to have had the best experience with the cold starts so let me quiz you a bit more.

What is the coldest temperature you started with no problem?

What is the threshold temperature for which you automatically go to the 30 second prime. In other words, how cold does it need to be to go to that procedure?

You mentioned prime and then throttle back to idle and then crank. How open do you have the throttle during prime? It is already clear that to start in cold the throttle should be either at idle or open no more than 1/8 inch.

You may have the answer based on your experience since Thansgiving. Where do you base the plane? How does your starting procedure differ from what Mike Busch told you?

Thanks for sharing this invaluable information.

Brian

Dear Fellow Cirrophiles,

The term “cold start” is an oxymoran in the SR20. It won,t. I am a proud, but frustrated, owner in Md. We have tried every incarnation of the starting procedure but have not been able to start it below 28 F without a preheat. This is a problem at our field as we(our group of three guys)have no power to plug a heater into or a hanger on the field as of yet. This will be rectified soon with the addition of 40 new hangers so we hope that next winter we have eliminated this problem. Han has the credit for the most effective starting procedure for us which is:

  1. Prime with full throttle for 30 sec. 2. Boost pump on. 3. Open throttle 1/4 inch(almost closed). 4. Crank ,but if it doesn’t fire, then re prime for 10-20 sec and try again. This usually works. Pre-heat seems to eliminate this problem entirely. Thanks and Good luck, Dan

These answers are reinfording my concerns about what should be a simple process. I know of one Cirrus in Maryland that has yet to be able to start the engine without a jump startwhenever the temperature has been below 40 F. This is rediculous! Clearly there has got to be a better way!

Dan:

I have heard you guys are having trouble at Ft. Meade. We are over at GAI and ahving the same problem. Would love to talk to you more about it.Sounds like your throttle is open too wide as all posts indicate 1/8 inch is the max and some do not crack the throttle at all.
I have only owned lycomin engines are thes continials always like this or is it a issue with the design I still want mine just wondering Don 215

Try the previous post as recommended directly from TCM and see if that works. Keep me posted.

Brian

Cirrus’, particularly Mike Busch. Prime, prime

and prime some more. You won’t flood the engine

and it will start. I haven’t had a problem

since Thanksgiving.

One last tip to try that doesn’t require as long a prime - continue to prime while you crank and switch to boost for a few seconds after it starts, until it runs smooth.

Joe:

So far you seem to have had the best experience with the cold starts so let me quiz you a bit more.

What is the coldest temperature you started with no problem?

What is the threshold temperature for which you automatically go to the 30 second prime. In other words, how cold does it need to be to go to that procedure?

You mentioned prime and then throttle back to idle and then crank. How open do you have the throttle during prime? It is already clear that to start in cold the throttle should be either at idle or open no more than 1/8 inch.

You may have the answer based on your experience since Thansgiving. Where do you base the plane? How does your starting procedure differ from what Mike Busch told you?

Thanks for sharing this invaluable information.

Brian

Dear Fellow Cirrophiles,

The term “cold start” is an oxymoran in the SR20. It won,t. I am a proud, but frustrated, owner in Md. We have tried every incarnation of the starting procedure but have not been able to start it below 28 F without a preheat. This is a problem at our field as we(our group of three guys)have no power to plug a heater into or a hanger on the field as of yet. This will be rectified soon with the addition of 40 new hangers so we hope that next winter we have eliminated this problem. Han has the credit for the most effective starting procedure for us which is:

  1. Prime with full throttle for 30 sec. 2. Boost pump on. 3. Open throttle 1/4 inch(almost closed). 4. Crank ,but if it doesn’t fire, then re prime for 10-20 sec and try again. This usually works. Pre-heat seems to eliminate this problem entirely. Thanks and Good luck, Dan

These answers are reinfording my concerns about what should be a simple process. I know of one Cirrus in Maryland that has yet to be able to start the engine without a jump startwhenever the temperature has been below 40 F. This is rediculous! Clearly there has got to be a better way!

Brian

There is a way and it works every time. Just as Han said, you must prime this engine a great deal - eg. at least 30 seconds, immediately switch to boost, close the throttle and crank.

After I watched 3 different A&P’s kill my battery, I decided to ignore their alisten to Cirrus’, particularly Mike Busch. Prime, prime and prime some more. You won’t flood the engine and it will start. I haven’t had a problem since Thanksgiving.

One last tip to try that doesn’t require as long a prime - continue to prime while you crank and switch to boost for a few seconds after it starts, until it runs smooth.

Joe:

So far you seem to have had the best experience with the cold starts so let me quiz you a bit more.

What is the coldest temperature you started with no problem?

What is the threshold temperature for which you automatically go to the 30 second prime. In other words, how cold does it need to be to go to that procedure?

You mentioned prime and then throttle back to idle and then crank. How open do you have the throttle during prime? It is already clear that to start in cold the throttle should be either at idle or open no more than 1/8 inch.

You may have the answer based on your experience since Thansgiving. Where do you base the plane? How does your starting procedure differ from what Mike Busch told you?

Thanks for sharing this invaluable information.

Brian

Dear Fellow Cirrophiles,

The term “cold start” is an oxymoran in the SR20. It won,t. I am a proud, but frustrated, owner in Md. We have tried every incarnation of the starting procedure but have not been able to start it below 28 F without a preheat. This is a problem at our field as we(our group of three guys)have no power to plug a heater into or a hanger on the field as of yet.

Hmm, I was always told that when the weather goes below 35 or so, you should always preheat the engine, otherwise you risk serious damage. What are TCM’s recommendations on preheating?

Tom

No preheat automatically recommended above 15-20F but clearly that does not work here. Unfortunately a host of folks have no preheat available when the temp is around 30F and they are getting stranded.

Brian

No preheat automatically recommended above 15-20F but clearly that does not work here. Unfortunately a host of folks have no preheat available when the temp is around 30F and they are getting stranded.

Brian

A data point for those who are wondering:

I have the Reiff Oil Preheat system (cylinder heating bands & sump heater) installed on N84MR. In the coldest of weather (so far, not colder than about 15F or about minus 9 C), the engine is warm to the touch after the system has been on overnight. Starting in the morning has been something that is still not quite as easy as when the temp is above freezing, but has never taken more than three tries, using the EPCSM (Extended Prime Cold Start Method)* described above. FWIW.

Watch out for the hot-air-blower types of preheat - the training guide warns us to be careful about damage to the cowling composite material. I wouldn’t know how to “be careful” with this, so I haven’t used them. (Actually, that’s why I installed the Reiff system).

  • Mike.
    • Credit and thanks to Han Klinkspoor for coming up with an acronym that replaces a whole paragraph!

I think preheat is the way to go. The Reiff system I had installed in 163CD works great. I also have a small, very light generator that I take along if I think there might not be a place to plug in. Check out the Reiff web page re the importance of preheat.

Preheat is the obvious workaround, but how many of us have that available?

For the record: Credit goes to Joe Lennon for the EPCSM (Extended Prime Cold Start Method) as he researched it with TCM and Mike Bush @ Cirrus.

HK

These answers are reinfording my concerns about what should be a simple process. I know of one Cirrus in Maryland that has yet to be able to start the engine without a jump startwhenever the temperature has been below 40 F. This is rediculous! Clearly there has got to be a better way!

Brian

There is a way and it works every time. Just as Han said, you must prime this engine a great deal - eg. at least 30 seconds, immediately switch to boost, close the throttle and crank.

After I watched 3 different A&P’s kill my battery, I decided to ignore their alisten to Cirrus’, particularly Mike Busch. Prime, prime and prime some more. You won’t flood the engine and it will start. I haven’t had a problem since Thanksgiving.

One last tip to try that doesn’t require as long a prime - continue to prime while you crank and switch to boost for a few seconds after it starts, until it runs smooth.

Joe:

So far you seem to have had the best experience with the cold starts so let me quiz you a bit more.

What is the coldest temperature you started with no problem?

What is the threshold temperature for which you automatically go to the 30 second prime. In other words, how cold does it need to be to go to that procedure?

You mentioned prime and then throttle back to idle and then crank. How open do you have the throttle during prime? It is already clear that to start in cold the throttle should be either at idle or open no more than 1/8 inch.

You may have the answer based on your experience since Thansgiving. Where do you base the plane? How does your starting procedure differ from what Mike Busch told you?

Thanks for sharing this invaluable information.

Brian

Dear Fellow Cirrophiles,

The term “cold start” is an oxymoran in the SR20. It won,t. I am a proud, but frustrated, owner in Md. We have tried every incarnation of the starting procedure but have not been able to start it below 28 F without a preheat. This is a problem at our field as we(our group of three guys)have no power to plug a heater into or a hanger on the field as of yet. This will be rectified soon with the addition of 40 new hangers so we hope that next winter we have eliminated this problem. Han has the credit for the most effective starting procedure for us which is:

  1. Prime with full throttle for 30 sec. 2. Boost pump on. 3. Open throttle 1/4 inch(almost closed). 4. Crank ,but if it doesn’t fire, then re prime for 10-20 sec and try again. This usually works. Pre-heat seems to eliminate this problem entirely. Thanks and Good luck, Dan

I think preheat is the way to go. The Reiff system I had installed in 163CD works great. I also have a small, very light generator that I take along if I think there might not be a place to plug in.
Bill –

  1. What’s involved in getting this installed, pls? Approx labor cost etc?

  2. What’s the make/model of the generator pls?

Thanks, Jim F.