Starting a pre-heated SR22

I recently started flying a Cirrus SR-22 G3. It definitely does not start as easily as the SR20s I was used to flying. Any starting advice for the plane coming out of the hangar for the first flight of the day? It is usually plugged into a preheater overnight putting it at 100 dg on the oil temp.

Prime for 2-3 seconds.

Wait 30 seconds.

Throttle 1/2" from idle

Mixture closed

Boost pump ON

Crank engine

Push mixture ahead smoothly when cylinder combustion/firing starts

You’re sure to get several responses, but this works best for me NA-G2 SR22:

  1. Mixture full rich

  2. Throttle wide open

  3. Prime for 2 seconds

  4. Wait 1 second

  5. Prime a short blast of no more than 1 second

6.Keep mixture full rich

  1. Crack throttle to only 1/2"

8., Turn key

Usually starts within 1-2 prop turns.

I prime my SR22 for 5-6 seconds, throttle wide open. Then reduce throttle to 2 inches. Wait 30 seconds. No matter how cold, or hot, preheated or not, it will always start within 1 turn of the prop, sometimes 1/2.

Everyone has their own method so asking here will really just confuse you.

I find it helps to rub my belly after priming. Three rotations around the belly button. Always clockwise. Counter-clockwise never works – it can flood the engine.

Would Clyde need to rub counter clockwise?

It is harder for Clyde to use my method down under. It requires more agility and frankly it looks comical. It’s still done clockwise, but the circular rub is on one’s backside.

Sara, you’ve gotten some very widely the diverging responses. Some of those are from wack job mechanics, others from pilots. But the question to ask, what does the engine operating manual say? And is yours a conforming engine? Call me with questions. Merry Christmas

Something like this:

Screen Shot 2015-12-20 at 8.49.59 am.png

But it has variations for flooded engine, cold start and hot start. Is a pre-heated engine normal, cold or hot?

As far as following this advice goes, it’s fine for cold starts but if I were to follow the hot start procedure (full rich, throttle half open) I would then have to move onto the flooded engine procedure. It saves time and starter wear just to use the flooded engine procedure (mixture at cutoff) for all hot starts.

The engine manual also says: " If difficulty in starting is experienced, do not crank for longer than thirty seconds at a time". Thirty seconds??? If it hasn’t started after 5 seconds of cranking the fuel-air ratio is wrong. Stop and try something different.

So while I would not label the engine operating manual’s advice as wrong, I am firmly of the belief that it can be improved upon. Which is presumably why the OP asked the question in the first place.

No doubt my friend but there are things which make starting an engine more difficult than it has to be if they are out of conformity. So before one go too crazy with standing on your head while rubbing your tummy check the three magic things. SID-97-3F, Mag timing + spark plugs, and induction leaks.

Yes, and once you’ve done those (I have) gaining some understanding about what is actually happening in the induction manifold under various conditions, and refining the factory technique accordingly, makes a world of difference. It has less to do with the engine than it does the accessories, specifically the fuel pumps and distribution system.