Ivan,
I have two EcoFlow River 2 batteries. They worked great with my Starlink and still work with other things but stopped working with my Starlink around a month ago. Very strange. They worked great for about six months and then one day the Starlink stopped pulling power from them. Same as you are seeing with USB-C. I am away from my plane for several weeks so I cannot test anything, but I reverted to a much smaller Anker battery and the Starlink powered up just fine. I can’t explain it.
Yes… It could be as little as 5% or as much as 25% more efficient going direct DC. It depends on the efficiency of the River 2 Inverter and the AC Adapter combined.
I made up this pigtail adapter- cigarette to female 2.5mm with a heavy duty cigarette plug cut down and some 2.5mm sockets from Amazon
Works great and allows me to use standard SL cable with water seal as I move mini from plane to boat
I couldn’t find one that was commercially made with female 2.5 to cig male… lmk if one exists
Nice!
I wouild stick with that! But since you asked, Options:
Not what you asked for, but this thing is nice to have as well when moving from boat to vehicle to airplane depending on the mount being used:
Yes, indeed very strange…. I flew to colorado from FL and Back…. A few months ago and suddenly it stopped working with same set up (usb c)…. I think it was a firmware upgrade that changed things
Well, it worked just fine for a number of months. I guess it was right on the edge and a firmware change bumped it up above the 60 watts.
How many fine folks here have put an extra Starlink on their hangar roof? Would this magnetic mount work? I feel like if it could withstand being on the top of a moving vehicle at 75 mph, it could withstand mother nature on the metal roof? I know there are more permanent screw down mounts, but I may get less heat from the airport owner.
Goal is to get wifi on the TV and my laptop to perform all my chart uploads vs coming home. What plan would you suggest? Would i have any issues getting the Starlink Wifi signal clearly inside? Thanks for any Pireps who have done this.
That mount will work… WiFi might be a little tough if it’s a metal roof/building, might work ok, but could limit speed and connections.
For a little less money and a lot better performance you could get the standard g3 dish.
The added benefit of this unit is it has a separate router to put in the hangar. Since you have to get power any dish you get anyway, running the cable shouldn’t be an issue.
There are plenty of mounts out there for those as well.
Service plans vary. But roam plans work well. If you have cameras in the hangar, you’ll use more data, residential light is likely the way to go.
Thank you. That makes sense. Appreciate your tireless efforts with this stuff,
I use the jackery100, and it usually works. I just purchased star links usb cable, and haven’t tried that to see if it changes to… “it always works.”
HELP! I googled Bradket mounts, I cant find these! Can you share a link? This is EXACTLY the kind of mount I need, so I can put the window shade under it (slide it on top of the Starlink MIni), so the California sun doesnt wreck the unit.
I sent you a DM with details 
Erik,
I am picking my plane up on Friday. Getting the 28-volt TSO’d Cigarette Lighter Receptacle installed. Can I use this to recharge my cell or iPad without damaging it? Ultimately, I am hoping it will run the Starlink and be able to power my iPad at the same time.
No way would I plug a thousand dollars of electronics into a cheap device like that from an unknown vendor. The price is too low for any sort of decent quality USB power converter claiming more than 100W.
Plus, the specs say 12v-24v, and the Cirrus electric system is higher than 24v.
I’ve always worried about that. Car systems say they are 12 volts but run at 14.5 nominally when the alternator is charging. Our system is a 24 volt battery but when the alternator is running more like 28.5 nominally. Do the sellers of these just say 12 or 24 thinking most people don’t know the difference? Inquiring minds…
On the issue of cheaply designed or manufactured charger circuitry that can be a very real issue. Many of the cheaper ones emit EMI and often it will bother our radios. I prefer to use aircraft grade USB ports, they are well shielded. But TSO’s ports are pretty much 10X cost wise.
Roger,
In hindsight, I wish that I’d put in the TSO’d USB ports. I see now the Starlink mini supports 12v to 48v inputs, so I guess that is why the 28v cigarette receptacle works for it, but it is a limited solution for running/charging other things (iPads/cellphones/inogen oxygen).
Yep. SL seems to like 28V DC. Gets as much power as it wants. Mine is wired directly to a dedicated CB and has never hiccuped. I have 2 TSO’ed USB ports. Expensive and they need dedicated wiring so it’s not cheap to do. Fortunately I know a mechanic.
No reason you cannot utilize the same wiring and put a TSO’d USB-C PD Port in now or in the future.
“We” were not recommending them in the beginning due to “Power Saving” an/or cable issues with these units. Same issue with the stock 60-watt version in the G6’s. This issue is now corrected on newly purchased units.
However, I still find the 24/28v cigarette plug more versatile. You can find adapters for almost anything.
I have used mine with the following unit and it charges my laptop at 60 watts no issue, which is the max for the version of laptop I have.
Starlink Mini is now only $299 at BestBuy and others.
We recommend ordering from BestBuy or Walmart so you can knowingly activate on the proper Local/Global Priority Plan. Ordering from SpaceX/StarLink Directly may delay a proper plan change for up-to 30 days as The only way to order from Starlink is via the Roam Plan.
