Skywatch, ARNAV & Improved Starting Kit

We got our plane, SR20 s/n 1106, N747TG back out of the second anual inspection. Total time now is 370 hrs. 2 new tires, new brake linings and a new battery (on warranty), everything else pretty normal.

We got the first European Skywatch Retrofit Kit, the first European ARNAV BH upgrade, and (guess) the first European Improved Starting Kit. (We got the first European Engine Monitoring earlier this year - N747TG is the local guinea pig around here…)

Starting Kit: Fantastic! After 2 seconds prime, the engine starts immediately and runs smoothly. 2 years of starting problems finally came to an end. On the first re-start after refueling, I flooded the engine (my fault) - I’m careful now. But this is one of the best improvements you can add to your SR20.

Skywatch: There is not much to add to the many posts already posted. It is absolutely amazing how many airplanes are so close to you which you never see without such a system. Since Europe is way behind with Mode S, and since we have lots of fields with no Radar coverage where Mode S would not help anyway, this is the right solution for me. It works fantastic.

ARNAV: The improvement with BH has already been described by others. In DC-0, the refresh rates are still too slow. DC-1 has all you need, and refresh rates are acceptable. European air spaces and mountaineous areas are very well modelled, a big improement compared to the olden times. (Funny: We got the system installed in the Netherlands, with airport elevation at minus 11 feet - below sea level. Obviously, we were the first ever to try the BH software in the negative - we got a big “ERROR CODE”. However, ARNAV solved the software issue within 2 days!) With the BH software including Engine Monitoring, and now prepared for the ARINC 429 interface, I do not see any disadvantage compared to the Avidyne screen.

Big cudos to our Service Center, General Enterprises, who carefully solved all issues - first time jobs for them as well.

Timm Preusser, N747TG

Great pirep. Having just about drained my battery trying to unsuccesfully start my engine yesterday, I may be interested in the “starting kit”. I am still a bit surprized CD will not pay for the kit. I’d be willing to pay for labor.
Tot Straks for now.

what means DC-0 vs. DC-1 on the Arnav ??

Thanks for the Dc explanation.
Other question, did you have to send your Arnav MFD to the US or did they do it in Elde ?

Paul: I agree that Cirrus aught to pay for the starting kit cost parts and labor This point was made at the recent CPPP meeting at AOPA Palm Springs with Alan Klapmeyer, Ian Bently and Steve Serfing present from CD. Steve suggested a possible price for the starting kit of $750 approx.

At least the price of $450 is more reasonable. I will probably get it done. For now, my technique is 8 “bumps” of boost then prime then start. This seems to work fairly well, although every once in a while it takes a second attempt. FWIW, I did drain the battery once at KHIO not completely, but enough where the engine wouldn’t turn over. Hillsboro Aviation came to the rescue with a large tug with ground power and it started. This was about when I learned the starting technique. I think with the hard starting kit, the “technique” part of the starting will be a thing of the past. Just engage prime for a few seconds, then boost, then start. I also have the port drain connectors.

In reply to:

my technique is 8 “bumps” of boost then prime then start

Hi Stephen,

Do you mean 8 “bumps” of prime then boost then start?

I have a discussion on this in the members side, but your starting situation sounds exactily like mine was. Have your A&P check the fuel line from the fuel distributer to one of the injectors. If you do not see any fuel flowing while the switch is in boost mode, have your A&P contact Cirrus to find out what the fuel pressure should be in boost mode. There is an adjustment on the fuel pump that can be “tweaked” to bring it in spec. Possibly can save you a kilobuck or so.

Take care,


What are the “port drain connectors”?

By the way, I just found out (on my delivery trip last week, to pick up 224MN),
that Cirrus is not installing this starting kit even on the new aircraft. I was told
that they didn’t think the kit was really necessary, so they are thinking of it as
an optional “product improvement”.

So far, on my SR22, I agree with them, as I have had no difficulities starting it.

I do think they should install this kit free, as well as any other changes required,
for those out there that are having difficulties starting, on an as-needed basis.


I was at the AOPA convention and I have been using Alan’s method. I have been switching on the boost while I did other things and it starts with a couple of turns. I also have port drains and the weather has been warm in San Diego.
Dick Grothen

In reply to:

What are the “port drain connectors”?


A clue is available if you start here. [;)]


Do you know waht differences have been built into the latest SR 22’s as far as starting is concerned? I, like you, have a recent delivery and I have had absolutely no problems with starting including cold weather starts in Duluth. Hot starts after an hour shutdown have been a non issue. In fact, there is NO scenario where ther has been ANY problem starting.
So what has changed?


In reply to:

recent delivery and I have had absolutely no problems with starting including cold weather starts in Duluth. Hot starts after an hour shutdown have been a non issue. In fact, there is NO scenario where there has been ANY problem starting.

What starting techniques do you use? I’m asking to try to determine if there has been a physical change to the newer SR22s versus a change in the POH recommended techniques (or both?).



I’m not sure what they’ve changed, but I do know that they have not installed the
new boost fuel pump starting kit on the new airplanes.

Heres how I was taught to start the plane:

COLD: - Mixture: FULL RICH
- Throttle: FULL FORWARD
- Fuel pump: PRIME 5 seconds, then BOOST
- Throttle: 1/4" OPEN
- Ignition: START

WARM, Shortly after shutdown (e.g. 20 minutes or less), plenty of fuel should still
be available in the cylinders, not enough time to vapor lock:
- Throttle: CLOSED
- Fuel pump: BOOST right before starting
- Ignition: START
- Throttle: 1000 RPM
(if I crack the throttle 1/4" or BOOST too early, it will flood the engine)

      At first I had trouble with warm starts, because the engine was flooding,
      by leaning the mixture, closing the throttle and not turning on BOOST too
      early, it now easily starts in these situations.

HOT day starts, engine hot:
- Try WARM start above
If it won’t start and vapor lock suspected (I haven’t had to try this out yet):
- Mixture: IDLE CUTOFF
- Throttle: CLOSED
- Fuel pump: BOOST for 30 seconds (circulate cooler fuel from the
tanks from tank to selector valve, through the fuel pump and back to
the tanks… to cool these lines)
- Try cold start, above

I understand that after serial number 277 some “changes” were made but do not know what they are. I am serial number 340 and here is what I do:
Cold start: throttle and mixture full forward. Prime 30 seconds, pull throttle back to 1/4 inch. Boost on and crank. Starts right away.
Hot start: Mixture rich, throttle 1/4 inch. Prime 3 seconds, then boost and then crank. Usually starts very quickly. Sometimes just an extra few turns. But no problems overall.

DC-0, DC-1, DC-2 are different levels of De-Cluttering. DC-0 has everything including terrain; DC-1 has everything without terrain; DC-2 (I believe) leaves out the roads; DC-3 only shows airspace.

Timm Preusser N747TG

For the BH upgrade you send it to ARNAV. You can easyly do it on your own, no Service Center needed.

Timm Preusser N747TG